Tuesday, October 18, 2005

Mao and the Forbidden City

I woke up a little late today. Well, not that late actually just later than I planned. I left the hostel around 9, I guess, to go to Mao's mausoleum. The line was so long. The mausoleum or memorial hall is huge and the line wrapped around all sides of the building. I was going to take a picture of one side but I forgot. I started at the end of the line and had been in it for maybe 10 minutes when some guy told me I needed to check my bag. I didn't want to waste the 10 minutes I'd been in line but decided to follow him anyways. I checked my bag and then he offered to let me jump to maybe first 5th of the line. I swear I jumped like 1000 people. I had to pay about $8 but the admission was free and I saved over an hour, maybe several hours. I talked him down from 100 yuan to 60.

The mausoleum was much busier than Lenin's. Mao is still revered by quite a few Chinese. I saw some woman praying in front of it. Then there was a point where you could buy some flowers for Mao. So many people bought flowers. I really couldn't believe it. It seemed like such a big waste too. When you entered, there was a giant statue of Mao and a little table to put the flowers on. It was more like a cupboard that could be rolled away. I think the top of it must lower because every once in awhile they would crank it and the flowers would sink and they also rearranged them to allow for more flowers. I'm guessing they must take the flowers out and then resell them. Then of course, I got to see the body. I heard there are replicas but I think I saw the real thing since it had such sunken skin and droopy face. Of course, that's the part of the line that moves the fastest. They zip you right past the body. I must say that it was cheerier than Lenin's tomb. Some sunlight and brighter walls. I didn't get in any trouble either. Oh, when they put the flowers on the counter, they all did this bow and brought the flowers up over their heads and then down again several times. I ran into some Chinese girls later and one said that when she went some old woman was in tears. Funny to think of how Mao is so hated outside of China.

Afterwards, I went to the Forbidden City. It was a little disappointing I must say. The buildings mostly all looked the same to me and there were throngs and throngs of people. People everywhere. Fat people, skinny people, you get the idea I'm sure. I also became skilled at the art of self-photography. No point asking someone to take my picture when half the time they don't end up even taking one. My camera isn't that hard to work, it just takes a few seconds of holding the button down to take the picture. I asked Avena to take 3 pictures of my on the Great Wall. She actually only took one. Self-photography will have to be the way I go I think. I'd hate to have to chase someone down to get my camera back. Plus I look completely ridiculous in the photos and get to feel equally ridiculous taking them. It amuses me. My head is also massive since my arms aren't long enough and I block most of what I'm trying to take a photo of.

So anyways, Forbidden City was so-so. I think it's better for me to have no expectations. I hate the anti-climax. That's probably why I wanted to go to strange locations since I had no idea what I would see.

I've also formulated a new travel plan. I thought it was much better a few hours before I realized something but we'll see I guess. I think that I'm also definitely going to go to Tibet. It's too bad I'm not really that spiritual so some aspects of Tibet will be lost on me. So after a few days in Tibet I'll probably head across the border to Nepal. Then I thought I'd be going east but actually it makes more sense to go west. I thought maybe I'd fly from Nepal to Hong Kong or something but flying doesn't seem very exciting. Seems too easy. So now I might go through India and Pakistan and go back through China, through the part I meant to go through all along. Then I can spend a few days on a train heading back to the coast and the eventual ferry back to Korea.

After the Forbidden City, I met some girls who were from outside Shanghai. We walked together for a bit. I was surprised actually. They didn't try to take me to an art exhibition (I went to a third one today, arghh, oh well). They just wanted to practice their English. They asked if I had any siblings. I don't know why everyone always assumes I'm the youngest. No one has ever guessed that I was the oldest. I wonder why that is. I read some birth order psych book and it seemed pretty accurate really, well for me, the oldest brother of sisters. I always think I would've been so much different if I'd had a brother. I took some stupid online quiz that said I must've been a 4th born. I thought about that as I was walking along to the Temple of Heaven. It wasn't a long walk and I was almost there but then no longer felt like going. I've been Beijinged out I think. I think the key to avoiding loneliness is to keep on trucking. The whole self-photography business, funny as it may be, makes you feel a bit lonely after awhile.

I'm in Beijing for another day as well. I could go back to the Temple of Heaven or the Summer Palace. Hopefully, I'll feel more up to it tomorrow. Maybe I've been walking too much. I'm going to sleep in tomorrow I think. I'm taking a train to Pingyao tomorrow.

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